I know many of you have a little one on your holiday gift giving list, and I have a great quick project for you! The Beanie with Bling is next on our series! On the 4th day of Christmas we have something special for the sweet littles in our lives! I made this cute beanie for my niece! This bow topped winter hat, dressed up with a pretty piece of bling is just perfect for this sweet girl! She wears it well and LOVES it! Look at those poses she makes! This free crochet pattern has a written tutorial along with a video for instructions so anyone can make this! I am telling you now, who ever gets this for Christmas will LOVE it! Go make yours now by following my instructions below!
My dad will continue to be the videographer, editor, and photographer for our videos when I move away.
Support YARNutopia today so we can continue to bring you clear, quality crochet tutorials even after I move into my new home!
There will be an added expense of more travel and hopefully this won’t deter our ability to provide consistent videos on a weekly basis.
Teacher: Nadia Fuad
Video and Editing: Fuad Azmat (My Daddy)
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Pattern:
Designed by Nadia Fuad You *may* sell items made from my pattern, but please reference my website YARNutopia.com.
Please do not copy, sell, and/or post this pattern and claim it as your own.
NOTES:
-Use a smaller hook to make these smaller
-Use a bigger hook to make these bigger
-You can do as many rows of the increase part of this pattern as you want to make it as wide as you want.
Special stitches:
Ch(s): chain(s)
YO: Yarn Over
BLO: Back Loop Only
FLO: Front Loop Only
St(s): Stitch(es)
Sl st: slip stitch
SK: Skip
SC: Single Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
DC: Double Crochet
Pattern:
If you have any confusion or difficulty with reading this pattern, please watch the video tutorial that is linked above in this blog post to have visual instructions.
Hat:
Ch 31 Row 1: HDC in 2nd Ch from hook and next 4 chs, DC in next 20 chs, SC in last 5 chs, Ch 1, Turn. (30)
Row 2: SC in 1st 5 sts, DC in next 20 sts, Working in BLO, HDC in last 5 sts, Ch 1, turn. (30)
Row 3: Working in BLO, HDC in first 5 sts, Working in Both Loops, DC in next 20 sts, SC in last 5 sts, Ch 1, turn.
Rows 4-35: Repeat Rows 2 & 3
Fasten off with long tail for sewing.
Sew up back of hat and cinch the top closed by sewing it. See video tutorial for visual instructions.
Bow:
Work in BLO and in continuous rounds
Ch 45
Rnd 1: SC in first Ch to form a ring, SC in each ch around, do not attach, continue to work in continuous rounds and in BLO
Rnds 2-12: SC in each st around.
Fasten off with long tail.
Cinch Center together and wrap yarn around. Sew button to center of bow.
Attach bow to top of hat.
See video tutorial for visual instructions
Enjoy!!
This post contains affiliate links, which I may be compensated for when you make a purchase. That means if you click on any link and buy from the linked websites, I will receive a small percentage of the value of your order. The amount you pay is not changed. Thank you for all your support in clicking the links in my blog!! You all are so amazing!! ~Nadia
The yarn provided for this pattern is courtesy of Yarnspirations
Using the Fair Isle crochet stitch, I created these knee high socks!! This design makes the contrasting color look like mini hearts!! These socks are so incredibly warm and fashionable! I have made socks working from the cuff down to the toes, but this sock is created starting from the toes and working its way up the leg! These fun socks can be made in all sorts of color combinations! Go wild with your imagination! Enjoy this fun pattern!
Follow along with this video tutorial to learn how to make these socks:
My dad will continue to be the videographer, editor, and photographer for our videos.
Support YARNutopia today so we can continue to bring you clear, quality crochet tutorials even after I move into my new home!
There will be an added expense of more travel and hopefully this won’t deter our ability to provide consistent videos on a weekly basis.
Pattern:
Designed by Nadia Fuad
Questions? Leave a Comment! You may sell items made from my pattern, but please reference my website YARNutopia.com. Please do not copy, sell, and/or post this pattern and claim it as your own.
NOTES:
-These socks are worked from the bottom up.
-You can use any worsted weight or double knitting type of yarn. Go to YARNSUB.com and type in Amore and all the substitutions that are equal to this type of yarn will show up.
-These socks measure–Sole: 10 inches (24 cm), Length from Toe to Cuff: 21.5 inches (54 cm), Length of leg part only–cuff to heel: 13.5 inches (35 cm)
-These socks will fit a size 6-9 American Woman’s Shoe Size foot. The video tutorial explains how to make these larger or smaller with very few simple steps. Please watch the entire video tutorial to learn how to do this for other sizes.
-To make these smaller or larger, just make sure your increases are all in a multiple of 4 (I explain this in the video tutorial)
-The CH 2 or CH 1 at the beginning of a round does NOT count as a stitch. Sl st to the beginning stitch of that round to go onto the next round.
-The majority of these socks are worked in continuous rounds. Mark your rounds with a stitch marker for each round so you do not lose your spot.
-Work over the top of your previous color strand when making the fair isle stitching
-If you see any mistakes in the pattern, please leave a comment to this post and I will fix any errors.
-Work INTO the stitch, and NOT at the top of the stitch (video tutorial shows this method)
-SEW IN YOUR LOOSE ENDS AS YOU GO! YOU WILL THANK YOURSELF LATER.
Ch: chain St(s): Stitch(es) Sl st: slip stitch SC: Single Crochet DC: Double Crochet FPDC: Front Post Double Crochet BPDC: Back Post Double Crochet SC2TOG: Single Crochet Decrease
Socks:
The video tutorial demonstrates the Left Sock Only. Right Sock instructions are written with the left sock pattern below.
Work in continuous rounds throughout this pattern.
Work over the top of your yarn strands when you change color.
Work INTO the stitch, NOT at the top of the stitch (see video tutorial for visual instructions)
Both Socks:
Starting with Red
Ch 11
Rnd 1: SC in 2nd ch from hook and across, put 3 SC in last Ch, continue working on opposite side of foundation chain, SC across, put 2 SC in last st. (21 sts)
Rnd 2: SC in 10 sts, 2 SC in next st, SC in 10 sts, 2 SC in last st. (23)
Place stitch markers on each side of the sock, this is where you will put increase stitches. Rnd 3: SC in each stitch until you get to a marked stitch, put 2 SC in the marked St.
Rnds 4-11: Repeat Round 3 until you have 41 stitches (you will increase each round by 2 stitches)
After Round 11, if you have more or less than 41 stitches, just be sure you have a multiple of 4+1 (example: 40 is a multiple of 4, plus 1 = 41 sts)
If you end up having to do more rounds, it’s ok, just go onto the instructions for round 12 next.
Rnd 12: SC in each st around (change color after last stitch to go onto Round 13) (41 sts)
Rnd 13: Change color to Chamomile, SC in each st around. (41 sts)
From now on, I will refer to Rooibos as “Red” and Chamomile as “White” in this written pattern
Rnd 14: With White, SC2TOG, SC in next 2 sts, *Change color, SC with Red, Change color, SC in 3 sts with White, repeat from * around. (40 sts)
At this point, you should have a multiple of 4 stitches around (if you do not have 40 stitches, be sure to have a multiple of 4)
Rnd 15: With White, SC in each st around. (40 sts)
Rnd 16: With White, SC in 1 st, *change color to Red, SC in 1 st, Change color to White, SC in next 3 sts, repeat from * around ending with SC in last 2 sts with White.
Rnd 17: With White, SC in each st around. (40 sts)
Rnd 18: With White, SC in next 3 sts, *Change color to Red, SC in 1 st, Change color to white, SC in next 3 sts, repeat from * around ending with one st in Red on the last st.
Rnds 19-43: Repeat Rounds 15-18 as many times as you need to get the length of the top of the foot you need. END ON A REPEAT OF ROW 15 before moving onto the next section. If you do more or less rows, that is ok, FASTEN OFF when you are done with this part and jump to the instructions for the leg part next. You will create the heel hole after you have the length you need in this section.
If any of this is confusing in writing, please view the video tutorial for clear instructions.
Heel Hole and Leg part:
Mark 20 sts on the TOP side of the sock (see video tutorial to see where top side is)
These instructions start at 56 minutes and 40 seconds into the video tutorial.
Right Foot: Heel Hole and Leg:
Rnd 1: Start in a stitch that is up 1 and over to the left 1 of a red stitch from the previous round (see video tutorial for specific location) In that stitch, attach your yarn and do the fair isle stitching (also known as: the established pattern) across 20 sts, end with a white stitch, Chain 18 loosely with White, skip 20 sts, continue to work in continuous rounds and go onto round 2 next.
Rnd 2: With White, SC in each st and each ch around. (38 sts)
Rnd 3: With White, SC in next 3 sts, *Change color to Red, SC in 1 st, Change color to white, SC in next 3 sts, repeat from * around ending with one st in Red on the last st. (if this does not line up with your fair isle stitches, just do the fair isle design as established, just keep note of what you started this round with and ended with because you will be repeating this round in the future)
Rnd 4: With White, SC in each st around.
Rnd 5: Fair Isle Stitches: With White, SC in 1 st, *change color to Red, SC in 1 st, Change color to White, SC in next 3 sts, repeat from * around ending with SC in last 2 sts with White.
Rnd 6: With White, SC in each st around AND put an EXTRA stitch in the last st. (increase made) (39 sts)
Rnds 7-10: repeat Rounds 3-6 one time.
Rnd 11: With White, SC in next 3 sts, *Change color to Red, SC in 1 st, Change color to white, SC in next 3 sts, repeat from * around.
Rnd 12: With White, SC in each st around AND put an EXTRA stitch in the last st. (increase made) (39 sts)
Rnd 13: With White, SC in 1 st, *change color to Red, SC in 1 st, Change color to White, SC in next 3 sts, repeat from * around.
Rnd 14: With White, SC in each st around AND put an EXTRA stitch in the last st. (increase made) (39 sts)
Since the increase is made, the ends of your rounds will turn out differently each time. Start your rounds EXACTLY THE SAME as instructed. See video tutorial for explanation.
Rnds 15-35: Repeat Rounds 11-14 for however long you need to so this part fits around your calf of your leg. I had 52 sts at the end of Round 35. You will need to end on a repeat of Round 11 before going onto the next round.
If you need to repeat this part more or less, just be sure your stitch count is a multiple of 4.
Rnd 36: With White, SC in each st and each ch around. (do not increase any more)
Rnd 37: Repeat Round 11
Rnd 38: With White, SC in each st and each ch around.
Rnd 39: Repeat Round 13
Left Foot Heel Hole and Leg:
Rnd 1: Start in a stitch that is up 1 and over to the left 1 of a red stitch from the previous round (see video tutorial for specific location) In that stitch, attach your yarn and SC in that stitch, Chain 18 loosely, Sk 20 sts, SC in NEXT st working the fair isle stitches on the rest of the sts on this round.
Rnd 2: With White, SC in each st and each ch around. (38 sts)
Rnd 3: With White, SC in first 2 sts, *Change color to Red, SC in next st, Change color to White, SC in next 3 sts, repeat from * around.
(When doing Round 3, you MAY have to add another stitch in somewhere to make the fair isle stitches line up correctly, if you do not, that’s ok, but if you do, that is also ok–nobody will notice, just use your judgement on if your fair isle stitches are lining up)
Rnd 4: With White, SC in each st and each ch around.
Rnd 5: With White, SC in first 4 sts, *Change color to Red, SC in next st, Change color to White, SC in next 3 sts, repeat from * around. (38 sts)
Rnd 6: With White, SC in each st around AND put an EXTRA stitch in the last st. (increase made) (39 sts)
Rnds 7-10: repeat Rounds 3-6 one time.
Rnd 11: With White, SC in first 2 sts, *Change color to Red, SC in next st, Change color to White, SC in next 3 sts, repeat from * around.
Rnd 12: With White, SC in each st around AND put an EXTRA stitch in the last st. (increase made) (40 sts)
Rnd 13: With White, SC in first 4 sts, *Change color to Red, SC in next st, Change color to White, SC in next 3 sts, repeat from * around.
Rnd 14: With White, SC in each st around AND put an EXTRA stitch in the last st. (increase made) (41 sts)
Rnds 15-35: Repeat Rounds 11-14 for however long you need to so this part fits around your calf of your leg. I had 52 sts at the end of Round 35. You will need to end on a repeat of Round 11 before going onto the next round.
If you need to repeat this part more or less, just be sure your stitch count is a multiple of 4.
Rnd 36: With White, SC in each st and each ch around. (do not increase any more)
Rnd 37: Repeat Round 11
Rnd 38: With White, SC in each st and each ch around.
Rnd 39: Repeat Round 13
BOTH SOCKS:
Rounds 40-86: Repeat Rounds 36-39 on the sock you are working on. End on a repeat of round 36 or 38 (plain SC with White Row)
You can continue this repeat until you want to make the cuff–For shorter legs, end earlier, for longer legs, continue the repeat.
Fasten off after you are done with the length and ready to make the cuff.
Next, go onto making the cuff.
Cuff:
Both Socks:
Attach Red to any stitch on back of sock.
Work in the top of the stitches on this part, not IN the stitch like you were for the fair isle design. Rnd 1: Ch 2 (does not count as anything), DC in same st and each st around, sl st to first DC. Rnd 2: Ch 2, FPDC on first St, *BPDC on next st, FPDC on next st, repeat from * around, sl st to first FPDC. Rnds 3-4: Repeat Round 2
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Heel:
Both Socks
With Red
Attach yarn on bottom sole side in center (see video tutorial for specific location) Rnd 1: Ch 1, SC 38 sts evenly around the Heel Hole, sl st to first SC.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, SC in first 7 sts, SC2TOG, SC in next st, SC2TOG, SC in 14 sts, SC2TOG, SC in next st, SC2TOG, SC in last 7 sts, sl st to first st. (34 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, SC in each st around, sl st to first st. (34)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, SC in first 6 sts, SC2TOG, SC in next st, SC2TOG, SC in 12 sts, SC2TOG, SC in next st, SC2TOG, SC in last 6 sts, sl st to first st. (30 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, SC in first 5 sts, SC2TOG, SC in next st, SC2TOG, SC in 10 sts, SC2TOG, SC in next st, SC2TOG, SC in last 5 sts, sl st to first st. (26 sts)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, SC in first 4 sts, SC2TOG, SC in next st, SC2TOG, SC in 8 sts, SC2TOG, SC in next st, SC2TOG, SC in last 4 sts, sl st to first st. (22 sts)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, SC in first 3 sts, SC2TOG, SC in next st, SC2TOG, SC in 6 sts, SC2TOG, SC in next st, SC2TOG, SC in last 3 sts, sl st to first st. (18 sts)
Rnd 8: Ch 1, SC in first 2 sts, SC2TOG, SC in next st, SC2TOG, SC in 4 sts, SC2TOG, SC in next st, SC2TOG, SC in last 2 sts, sl st to first st. (14 sts)
Fasten off with long tail for sewing
Assembly Step:
Turn sock inside out, Sew heel hole closed. Fasten off, weave in all ends.
Enjoy!
***You can always contact me via Facebook if you have any problems with the pattern. I am happy to help if you have any questions along the way.
Enjoy this video and subscribe to my channel on YouTube for more tutorials on how to crochet!
Leave a comment, and share with your friends!
This post contains affiliate links, which means if you click on the link and buy from the linked websites, I will receive a small percentage of the value of your order. The amount you pay is not changed.
This post contains affiliate links, which I may be compensated for when you make a purchase. That means if you click on any link and buy from the linked websites, I will receive a small percentage of the value of your order. The amount you pay is not changed. Thank you for all your support in clicking the links in my blog!! You all are so amazing!! ~Nadia
The yarn provided for this pattern is courtesy of Red Heart Yarns
My very last installment in the Link and Zelda costumes is The Fairy Tunic. I spent each night well past midnight the week before Halloween, trying to finish and achieve some level of authenticity to these costumes. I made this tunic a bit larger than my frame as it had to fit over the dress I had purchased at a thrift store. It can easily be altered by adding corset ties down the back to help cinch it in a bit.
Follow along with this video tutorial to learn how to make this shirt:
My dad will continue to be the videographer, editor, and photographer for our videos when I move away.
Support YARNutopia today so we can continue to bring you clear, quality crochet tutorials even after I move into my new home!
There will be an added expense of more travel and hopefully this won’t deter our ability to provide consistent videos on a weekly basis.
Designed by Nadia Fuad You *may* sell items made from my pattern, but please reference my website YARNutopia.com.
Please do not copy, sell, and/or post this pattern and claim it as your own.
-This project uses 640 yards of yarn.
-Use a smaller hook to make these smaller
-Use a bigger hook to make these bigger
-Watch the FULL video tutorial for visual instructions for each row and tips on how to make this smaller and bigger.
-Weave in all the ends as you go so you don’t have to weave them all in at the very end.
-If the instructions above are confusing, please message me on Facebook, and I will answer any questions you may have. Please be specific in your questions. Thank you!!
-The measurements for the top I made is said in the intro of the video tutorial
-If you need to make this a different size, make your foundation chain for the back side as wide as your back and each of the front pieces half of the width of your back piece.
Special stitches:
Ch(s): chain(s)
YO: Yarn Over
St(s): Stitch(es)
BLO: Back Loops Only
FLO: Front Loops Only
prev.: Previous
Sl st: slip stitch
SC: Single Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
DC: Double Crochet
DC2TOG: Double Crochet Decrease
HDC2TOG: Half Double Crochet Decrease
Pattern:
If you have any confusion or difficulty with reading this pattern, please watch the video tutorial to have visual instructions.
Back: Working from the top down
Ch 52 or any even number that is as wide as your back (again, see video tutorial for specific measuring) Row 1: DC in 4th Ch from hook and across, turn. (50) Row 2: Ch up 3 (counts as first DC) Work in between the posts of the stitches. (**Do not work in first space**), DC in each space across, DC in last ch up 3 st, turn. (50) Rows 3-37: Repeat Row 2 (50)
You can make more or less rows to cover your back, the next rows are the decrease to make the point. Row 38: [DC2TOG] 2x, DC in each space between the sts until 3 sps remain, [DC2TOG] 2x, turn. (46) (see video tutorial for specific location of decreases) Row 39: Ch up 3 (counts as first DC) Work in between the posts of the stitches. (**Do not work in first space**), DC in each space across, DC in last ch up 3 st, turn. Row 40: Repeat Row 38. (42) Row 41: Repeat Row 39. (42) Row 42: Repeat Row 38. (38) Row 43: Repeat Row 39. (38) Row 44: Repeat Row 38. (34) Row 45: Repeat Row 39. (34) Row 46: Repeat Row 38. (30) Row 47: Repeat Row 39. (30) Row 48: Repeat Row 38. (26) Row 49: Repeat Row 39. (26) Row 50: Repeat Row 38. (22) Row 51: Repeat Row 39. (22) Row 52: Repeat Row 38. (18) Row 53: Repeat Row 39. (18) Row 54: Repeat Row 38. (14) Row 55: Repeat Row 39. (14) Row 56: Repeat Row 38. (10) Row 57:Repeat Row 39. (10) Row 58: Repeat Row 38. (6) Row 59: Repeat Row 39. (6) Row 60: Ch up 2, DC in next sp, [DC2TOG] 2x. Row 61: Ch up 2, DC2TOG working in the sps only. (See video tutorial for those last 2 rows for visual instructions)
Fasten off, weave in ends.
Front Pieces: Make 2
Ch 4 Row 1: 2 DC in 4th Ch from hook, turn. (3) Row 2: Ch up 3 (counts as DC), (working between sts) DC in first sp on row, 2 DC in next sp, turn. (4) Row 3: Ch up 3, DC in first sp on row, 1 DC in each sp between the sts until 1 space remains, put 2 DC in last sp. (5) Row 4-28: Repeat Row 3
You can continue the increase if you need to. I have 30 sts at the end of row 28. Just make it half of the front of your chest measurement (1/4 of your whole bust measurement) Then go on to row 29 instructions Row 29-39: Ch up 3 (counts as first DC) Work in between the posts of the stitches. (**Including first space**), DC in each space across, turn.
You can continue to work DC rows for the length you need it to be. When you are done, fasten off with a long tail for sewing.
Assembly steps:
Sew front pieces to back piece.
Sew front center.
SC around bottom of entire piece.
Straps: Make 2
Ch 27 or the measurement of how long you need your straps to be Row 1: DC in 4th ch and across, turn. (25) Row 2: Ch up 3, DC across.
Fasten off with long tail for sewing.
Assembly step:
Sew straps to shirt.
Add white yarn detail in the front of your shirt by embroidering it with a yarn needle.
Enjoy!!
~Nadia
This post contains affiliate links, which I may be compensated for when you make a purchase. That means if you click on any link and buy from the linked websites, I will receive a small percentage of the value of your order. The amount you pay is not changed. Thank you for all your support in clicking the links in my blog!! You all are so amazing!! ~Nadia
The yarn provided for this pattern is courtesy of Red Heart Yarns
This pattern by Deb Richey is such a fun pattern to make! I forgot how adorable this bunny is! As it started to take shape, I remembered how lanky this creature is. What a fun stuffed toy for a little boy or girl during Easter!! This pattern took me a total of 10 hours to make.
Deb’s pattern is easy to follow and easy to read. In the end, it creates such an excellent piece. If you are looking for something fun to create this Easter, or any time of the year, this is a great project! This would be lovely in a nursery, it would make a nice gift, or a fun companion for the little ones in your life. The overall size of this bunny measures 36 inches tall (92 cm).
Have fun making this bunny in time for the holiday! I sure did!
~Nadia
This post contains affiliate links, which means if you click on the link and buy from the linked websites, I will receive a small percentage of the value of your order. The amount you pay is not changed.
Introducing The Pixie Puff Baby Bonnet. This elfin hat is so enchanting and has the charm of a tiny fairy-tale character. It’s conical shape is perfect for any little sprite. This will fit a baby that is 3-6 Months old. We work off measurements in the video, so you can make this bigger or smaller just by measuring your own. Enjoy!
Watch this video tutorial to learn how to make this bonnet:
My dad will continue to be the videographer, editor, and photographer for our videos when I move away.
Support YARNutopia today so we can continue to bring you clear, quality crochet tutorials even after I move into my new home!
There will be an added expense of more travel and hopefully this won’t deter our ability to provide consistent videos on a weekly basis.
Pattern:
Designed by Nadia Fuad You *may* sell items made from my pattern, but please reference my website YARNutopia.com.
Please do not copy, sell, and/or post this pattern and claim it as your own.
NOTES:
-You may use any size thread and any size hook to make this. Just know that it will turn out larger or smaller, but this project goes off measurements, so you can use any type of yarn to achieve this look.
Ch: chain
St(s): Stitch(es)
YO: Yarn Over
Sl st: slip stitch
SC: Single Crochet
DC: Double Crochet
Puff Stitch: (PS) (YO, Go into directed stitch, YO, Pull through) x5 (you should have 11 loops on your hook) YO and pull through all 11 loops. Puff Made.
Bonnet Start with Slip Knot with Long tail for sewing later
Ch 21 Loosely Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across, ch 1, turn. (20 sc)
Row 2: HDC in 1st st, *PS in next, HDC in next, repeat from * across, ending with HDC in last 2 sts. Ch 1, turn. (9 puff stitches made, 11 HDCs made)
Row 3: HDC in 1st 2 sts, *PS in next st, HDC in next st, repeat from * across. Ch 1, turn.
Row 4-31: Repeat rows 2 & 3 until your piece is 15 Inches (I was able to end at row 31, but you can end on any ODD number Row)
Row 32: Sc across and down the long side of your work (see video tutorial for visual instructions)
Fasten off
Assembly: Sew up the backside of the bonnet with the beginning long strand of yarn we made when we created our slip knot.
Tie Tassel:
Chain 100, Fasten off, Weave through the bottom edge of bonnet. (See video tutorial for visual instructions)
Weave in all ends.
Enjoy!
***You can always contact me if you have any problems with the pattern. I am happy to help if you have any questions along the way.
