My very last installment in the Link and Zelda costumes is The Fairy Tunic. I spent each night well past midnight the week before Halloween, trying to finish and achieve some level of authenticity to these costumes. I made this tunic a bit larger than my frame as it had to fit over the dress I had purchased at a thrift store. It can easily be altered by adding corset ties down the back to help cinch it in a bit.

Follow along with this video tutorial to learn how to make this shirt:

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***These patterns are copyright YARNutopia © so PLEASE DO NOT COPY, SHARE, ADJUST OR RESELL MY PATTERN. I wrote and tested this pattern myself, from beginning to end. It took a lot of time and work, and I would really like to have it remain “my pattern.”
***You can sell anything you make from my patterns, please just link back to my website YARNutopia.com. Thank you!Teacher: Nadia Fuad
Video and Editing: Fuad Azmat (My Daddy)
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Pattern:

Designed by Nadia Fuad
You *may* sell items made from my pattern, but please reference my website YARNutopia.com.
Please do not copy, sell, and/or post this pattern and claim it as your own.

Materials:

–Red Heart Soft in Berry
–Red Heart Super Saver Yarn in White
-K-6.50mm Crochet Hook (Find the hook I used in my video tutorial here!)
–Stitch Marker
–Yarn Needle
–Measuring Tape
–Scissors

NOTES:

-This project uses 640 yards of yarn.
-Use a smaller hook to make these smaller
-Use a bigger hook to make these bigger
-Watch the FULL video tutorial for visual instructions for each row and tips on how to make this smaller and bigger.
-Weave in all the ends as you go so you don’t have to weave them all in at the very end.
-If the instructions above are confusing, please message me on Facebook, and I will answer any questions you may have. Please be specific in your questions. Thank you!!
-The measurements for the top I made is said in the intro of the video tutorial
-If you need to make this a different size, make your foundation chain for the back side as wide as your back and each of the front pieces half of the width of your back piece.

Special stitches:
Ch(s): chain(s)
YO: Yarn Over
St(s): Stitch(es)
BLO: Back Loops Only
FLO: Front Loops Only
prev.: Previous
Sl st: slip stitch
SC: Single Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
DC: Double Crochet
DC2TOG: Double Crochet Decrease
HDC2TOG: Half Double Crochet Decrease

Pattern:

If you have any confusion or difficulty with reading this pattern, please watch the video tutorial to have visual instructions.

Back: Working from the top down
Ch 52 or any even number that is as wide as your back (again, see video tutorial for specific measuring)
Row 1: DC in 4th Ch from hook and across, turn. (50)
Row 2: Ch up 3 (counts as first DC) Work in between the posts of the stitches. (**Do not work in first space**), DC in each space across, DC in last ch up 3 st, turn. (50)
Rows 3-37: Repeat Row 2 (50)
You can make more or less rows to cover your back, the next rows are the decrease to make the point.
Row 38: [DC2TOG] 2x, DC in each space between the sts until 3 sps remain, [DC2TOG] 2x, turn. (46) (see video tutorial for specific location of decreases)
Row 39: Ch up 3 (counts as first DC) Work in between the posts of the stitches. (**Do not work in first space**), DC in each space across, DC in last ch up 3 st, turn.
Row 40: Repeat Row 38. (42)
Row 41: Repeat Row 39. (42)
Row 42: Repeat Row 38. (38)
Row 43: Repeat Row 39. (38)
Row 44: Repeat Row 38. (34)
Row 45: Repeat Row 39. (34)
Row 46: Repeat Row 38. (30)
Row 47: Repeat Row 39. (30)
Row 48: Repeat Row 38. (26)
Row 49: Repeat Row 39. (26)
Row 50: Repeat Row 38. (22)
Row 51: Repeat Row 39. (22)
Row 52: Repeat Row 38. (18)
Row 53: Repeat Row 39. (18)
Row 54: Repeat Row 38. (14)
Row 55:  Repeat Row 39. (14)
Row 56: Repeat Row 38. (10)
Row 57:Repeat Row 39. (10)
Row 58: Repeat Row 38. (6)
Row 59: Repeat Row 39. (6)
Row 60: Ch up 2, DC in next sp, [DC2TOG] 2x.
Row 61: Ch up 2, DC2TOG working in the sps only. (See video tutorial for those last 2 rows for visual instructions)
Fasten off, weave in ends.

 

Front Pieces: Make 2
Ch 4
Row 1: 2 DC in 4th Ch from hook, turn. (3)
Row 2: Ch up 3 (counts as DC), (working between sts) DC in first sp on row, 2 DC in next sp, turn. (4)
Row 3: Ch up 3, DC in first sp on row, 1 DC in each sp between the sts until 1 space remains, put 2 DC in last sp. (5)
Row 4-28: Repeat Row 3
You can continue the increase if you need to. I have 30 sts at the end of row 28. Just make it half of the front of your chest measurement (1/4 of your whole bust measurement) Then go on to row 29 instructions
Row 29-39: Ch up 3 (counts as first DC) Work in between the posts of the stitches. (**Including first space**), DC in each space across, turn.
You can continue to work DC rows for the length you need it to be. When you are done, fasten off with a long tail for sewing.

Assembly steps:
Sew front pieces to back piece.
Sew front center.
SC around bottom of entire piece.

Straps: Make 2
Ch 27 or the measurement of how long you need your straps to be
Row 1: DC in 4th ch and across, turn. (25)
Row 2: Ch up 3, DC across.
Fasten off with long tail for sewing.

Assembly step:
Sew straps to shirt.
Add white yarn detail in the front of your shirt by embroidering it with a yarn needle.

 

Enjoy!!

~Nadia

This post contains affiliate links, which I may be compensated for when you make a purchase. That means if you click on any link and buy from the linked websites, I will receive a small percentage of the value of your order. The amount you pay is not changed. Thank you for all your support in clicking the links in my blog!! You all are so amazing!! ~Nadia

The yarn provided for this pattern is courtesy of Red Heart Yarns

Like this hat? Try making the Princess Shoulder Armor: